Portland

The weekend down south

by Emily in

Friday we drove down to Olympia for a Mind Series fundraiser put on by Max’s Aunt Jane and Uncle John. The event was located at their friend Tom Anderson’s art gallery, and local musician Jim Valley played a show. Max and his brother Dillon opened with a few of their dad’s favorite hits,  and as usual the rock n’ roll got Hugh belting out lyrics.

Hugh, Max and Dillon Larkin at Mind Series benefit show

Crew from the Mind Series benefit show

Saturday we drove further south to Portland, and zoomed past all the familiar pit stops we previously reached on bicycle during our first leg. We made the second trek because there was a Rock Against Alzheimer’s benefit show to raise money for the Alzheimer’s Association happening. We met the Rock Against Alzheimer’s team back in May when we biked in, and they switched the date around so we were able to attend. But before the show we met up with our friend Aysha Ghazoul (the Portland bar-owner, filmmaker, bicyclist who’s joining us from Boston- New York), and she took us to an annual “Crawfish Boil”.

Max with crawfish

The cornbread, red velvet cupcakes, rockabilly band and hospitality made this Southern neighborhood tradition a treat. It was the first time I ate crawfish. A delicious spicy mess.

Crawfish boil remains

We got to see Rebecca and Lynn Channer at the crawfish party, two people we met and interviewed during our previous Portland stay. A small-world occurrence happened a while back when the aforementioned Uncle John joined our online network, and it led to the discovery that the Channers know him. Weird!

Aysha Ghazoul, Lynn and Rebecca Channer, Emily

After the crawfish fun we headed to the Rock Against Alzheimer’s show with Aysha. Upon arriving we were greeted by the amazing crew including the founder Kenny Field (we interviewed him during our previous visit where he works at the caring Alzheimer’s residence Emerson House), Melissa Creger (who works for Alz. Assoc), Alex Luse and Heidi (both also work at Emerson House), and Lauren (who designed the buttons and shirts).

Rock Against Alzheimer's

Aysha brought her new camera, and we both filmed part of the show to practice our uploading techniques for the east coast. The Rock Against Alzheimer’s crew asked us to give a little speech midway through the show, so we did and Max told the crowd how his dad has Young Onset Alzheimer’s and music continues to get him going.

Max shooting the show

Kenny, Max, Lauren and Emily

We told our COYOD connections about the show, and Felicia and Greg Heaton joined us toward the end. We met and interviewed the siblings back in May, and it was great seeing them again.

Felicia and Gregory Heaton

To make the weekend more wonderful, we met up with our “New BFF’s” Sam and Don for breakfast on Sunday. Quick recap- we met Sam randomly when we were on our loaded bikes back in May, and we ended up staying with her and her boyfriend Don for a couple days. Turns out this biking event was taking place Sunday where they close streets and let families ride around. So we did.

Don, Max, Emily and Sam

All in all, in 2 days we reconnected with 12 people in Portland that we met because of Spoke Your Mind.

Conversations with strangers

by Emily in North Coast

Between pit stops at cafes and campsites, we’ve encountered a number of people. It’s almost always a mutual exchange of information, or sometimes a good fortune.

The State Parks make it easy to meet other travelers. There’s a hiker/biker camping section that’s $4 a person in Oregon and just $3 a person in California. Steal! We had our first hiker/biker experience in Florence. That’s where we met Brad, a Californian who dropped his car off with his daughter in Eugene and was biking back to San Jose in 2 weeks. He was pushing 80 miles a day.

Max and Brad

As we rode from Crescent City through the Redwoods, we kept bumping into a couple riding in the same direction. They had a slightly lighter load, using buckets as saddle bags and a tarp as a tent. They were the hare and we were the tortoise, and after a number of run-ins we decided to camp together. Their names were Lucy and Emil, and turns out they just moved from Bellingham to Olympia.

Max, Emil and Lucy

When we rolled into Ferndale, we planned to camp at the fairgrounds but got distracted by a guitar playing from across the street. That’s how we met Reuben and Mallory. They offered a place to crash that night. Mallory fixed us up an amazing breakfast the next day.

Mallory and Emily

The morning of our biggest climb near Leggett, we ate some breakfast at the Peg House. We chatted with Gary, the owner, about Spoke Your Mind. He donated a freshly baked brownie and cookie for the cause, and the sugar helped us up the 4-mile hill. We need to go back to Peg House because they are rumored to have the best burgers in all of America.

After 60 miles of physical challenge, we soaked in a hot tub in Mendocino. That’s where we met Frank and Suzie, residents of Fort Bragg. Frank used to be an anchor and Suzie is a social worker. Now Frank is trying to connect us with a woman who works for public radio.

The other night we met two Veterans at the hiker/biker camp. At first we thought these two were a pair, but turns out they’re just both wanderers and we were graced with both their presence that night. Arthur (Art) had been traveling for 30 years around the U.S. and was now 73 and finally ready to return to society now that the Republicans are out of office. Ed left from Seattle on a customized bike to hold his cane and coffee mug with a Bob Trailer to carry his load. He has no end date yet. Ed enjoys meeting other bikers and seeing what they use- and he was certain we had the biggest load of any he’s seen yet.

We stayed up listening to the two tell endless stories about the wars they served, the way it used to be, and so forth. Both had drastic attitudes about the world- Art thought we were progressing forward with human rights and Ed thought the government was out to track us all down. We learned a lot from these two. Art told us about land squatting and Ed said you need to read history to find out where gold was lost- and his plan is to go find some in Nevada somewhere. When we got a chance to speak, we told them about our project. Well, Art said his batteries burnt out a while back- enough to light a whole city- but now he’s back and senility is just a part of aging.  And Ed told us to use the old methods, because if they worked for hundreds of years then they must be right.

Last night we bumped into Ed again at the next campsite. He was happy to see us and gave me a turkey feather. Sweet man.

Ed and Emily

But before reaching camp last night, we stopped at a cafe to email. We met a local named Harrison, who was a jazz musician and told us about a project called Jazzheimer’s. A San Francisco woman started Jazzheimer’s to play music in different homes for Alzheimer’s patients. We’re going to try to hook up with them while we’re in town. Small world indeed.

Reflections on Oregon

by Maxim in

One month ago yesterday we left Seattle. We have travelled over six hundred miles, cycled in three states, crossed 8 bridges (in the photo is the highest in Oregon), fixed seven flat tires, sailed upon four ferries and rode one bus. It has been one of the longest and exciting months of my life. Two weeks ago we left Portland. Life on a bike allows plenty of time to reflect…

The intensity of Portland came fast and strong. We arrived Friday night and by Monday we were introduced to at least four COYOD and the majority of the crew from the Oregon Chapter of the Alzheimer’s Association during the showing of  The Alzheimer’s Project. The night before Emily and I watched the first segment of the HBO series and it set the vehement tone for the coming week.  We interviewed five stories. During two of them we were able to meet the person with Young Onset Dementia. These five meetings and interviews happened over the course of seven days.

The feeling of comradery is very comforting when hearing of others similar experiences. Though with each story told I am constantly reminded of my father and his disease. The repetition of facing my own experiences with my father’s disease over and over is emotionally exhausting. This goes beyond story sharing with other COYODs but with everyone we tell of our project. It is a daily event. There is a difference between facing the disease through observing  my Dad than explaining to a stranger how destructive Young Onset Dementia truly is on a person and their family. The latter allows me to put an outside perspective on the reality of Young Onset Dementia. It also allows me to understand how it is affecting me not just my dad. I stress to everyone who is struggling to talk about a difficult topic to speak. A story has tremendous power.

Today we crossed into California. We have ahead of us four hundred and thirty miles until San Francisco. Thanks to all who have helped make this happen.

From Farm to Sea

by Maxim in Rogue Brewery, Willamette Valley

The morning of Monday the 25th we packed our mules, took one last look at the Benton County Fairgrounds and headed back into Corvallis. The departure was more sweet than bitter.

We had spent the previous day riding from Salem to Corvallis. Luckily the Boohers live on top of a “mountain”, so it was  not hard to ride with a belly full of sausage and french toast. We made our way from Salem through Derry, a town full of a dairy cows, along highway 99, south to Corvallis, home of the OSU Beavers. We spent our first couple hours eating and asking for directions to the coast. The locals engaged in a dialogue arguing between the two highways heading west, 20 and 34. After an hour or so the  unanimous decision was reached. Both roads were suicide missions. So we took the advice from a man who appeared to have taken many a blow from years of traveling to “take the bus.” We found the bus station. It was closed but through the windows scuffed from neglect we could see on the chalk board Westbound bus – 2:45 pm. We now had to find a place to camp, get dinner and figure out how to fit our bikes on a bus in a box. There were two campgrounds, one “full of vagrants and transients” and the other was out at the fairgrounds. The guy who told us to take the bus also advised us to stay away from the fairgrounds, but we went against his word. We arrived at the fairgrounds and did not see a soul for a couple of hours, though there were campers and cars scattered throughout the sites. We slept well but with dreams soaked in carnivals and circuses.

As we headed in town we knew we had until 2:45 to catch our bus. We grabbed breakfast and posted up at the coffee shop. Emily edited some footage and I figured out how to get our bicycles on the bus. At 1 when it opened I went to the bus station to talk to someone about traveling with our loads. He said it depended on the type of bus and the drivers discretion, but that most likely we would have to box our bikes. Unfortunately the station sold none. I went to the bicycle shop in town and they gave us two huge bike boxes.

Knowing that this could be quite a process for us to figure out how to dismantle our bikes to fit in a box the width of 8 inches and it was already half passed 1, I rounded up Emily and our things and headed back to the shop to get our boxes. The station was across town from the shop so we attempted to load the boxes on top of our rigs. After 20 feet they fell off and a man with a trailer met us at the station.

Untitled from Spoke Your Mind on Vimeo.

Under pressure we were able to fit our bikes in the box just in time to see the semi-dilapidated bus roll into the lot and the driver hop out to catch a quick smoke.

Untitled from Spoke Your Mind on Vimeo.

He drove us over the hills on highway 20 and it was a good thing we took the advice because the road had no shoulder and the drivers drove with no compassion. We arrived in Newport safe and sound.

A half a mile away we rode to the Rogue Brewery to meet the people who were putting us up for the night. Ryan Klitz, aforementioned above, used to work for Rogue Nation and hooked us up with a free place to stay at the Rogue Bed and Beer. They treated us like family.We were given sweatshirts and our dinner and most of our beer was on the house. Thanks Rogue!

The next morning, tuesday the 26th, we woke and rode 56 miles to Florence on highway 101.

The salt air refreshed us and the contrast between it and the farmland breeze was delightful. Some people really felt it…

Mile 300

by Maxim in mileage, Willamette Valley, Wine

Mile 300. from Spoke Your Mind on Vimeo.

The Willamette Valley.

by Emily in Hosts, Willamette Valley

Our route took a shift as we waited outside Portland’s REI last Thursday, and a local biker spawned some convo and encouraged us to head through the “Valley” vs. straight to the coast. On top of that advice were my mother’s concerns for Memorial Day traffic, then Pinot Noir tasting popped into my thoughts and so it was- the Willamette. The ride was peaceful, full of agriculture including hop vines and clover fields. Despite the initial day taking us up an unforgiving “hill” called Pete’s Mountain- where I nearly called it quits as I cursed myself up after toppling over because of the incline- it was worth the breathtaking countryside.

The third day we finally ran into some vineyards and decided to stroll into Witness Tree. There was a holiday special going on with cheese and music, so we got pretty cozy after tasting all the selections. A couple approached us to ask about our bikes, and then they offered a place to crash in Salem. We took them up on it. Turns out Amy is a musician, both her and Clifton love wine, and they had a lab named Bella. We hit it off. Here is a family pic below:

Meet Sam and Don. Our new bff’s.

by Emily in Hosts

We heart Portland.

by Emily in Add new tag, COYOD, Hosts, Portland

We arrived early in Portland, and are forcing ourselves to press south tomorrow. In two weeks we’ve stayed with 6 different hosts and really got around the town. The Oregon Chapter of Alzheimer’s Association’s staff is like our family now- Judy, Tracy, Melissa, Kate, etc. We got to attend both the HBO screening and Food for Thought, where we gave a little speech about our project, which naturally opened up more conversation with the people there. The connections are endless.

Speaking of connections- Rock Against Alzheimer’s crew is fabulous and we’re stoked we got to hang with them. Then there’s all the COYOD and people we’ve interviewed! We shot 4 stories, and yesterday interviewed specialists at the OHSU Alzheimer’s Center. While we were there, some guy approached us to ask about our bikes. Turns out he’s a COYOD. WTF? We’re going to hopefully connect with him today. We met a documentary filmmaker through a COYOD, and now she’s possibly down to join us for part of the trip…

Max and I are so grateful for all the people who let us bring our big loads into their homes. Our hosts deserve a very big shout out for enhancing our stay far beyond any expectations. Amy Dials- you brought us to pizza and the coolest McMenamin’s Kennedy elementary-school turned multi-pub and movie theater spot; Monica and Jeremy Sarant- thanks for connecting us with your friend at OHSU and taking us on a “little” joy ride of 40 miles; The Klitz’s- thank you for picking us up and making us instantly feel part of your amazing clan (see below for pic, Steve not pictured); The Dyer-Seeley’s- Kate, Gordy and Luke (and Dot and Sophie)- we love you!! As promised to Luke we will stop by 5-15 more times; Cassie and Omar- Stella, Petite Provencale and fun!; and our newest Portland friends Sam and Don- so happy we met Sam on the street, now we are in your home and we really dig you two.

We will miss Portland, but are getting excited for San Fran. And camping. A little time to digest it all and edit footage…

Max, Cyndi, Ryan and Sofi KlitzC

The Alzheimer’s Project – Oregon Chapter

by Maxim in COYOD

On Monday the 11th, we were invited to a showing of the first part of The Alzheimer’s Project on HBO. It was held at the Bridgeport Brewery, one of the many microbreweries in the city. With no where to go before it started we arrived 2 hours early. They were very nice and allowed us to store our bikes, trailers and panniers in the bike store room. The upstairs was reserved and people were pouring in. We met Kate Dyer-Seely, who enthusiastically introduced us to many COYOD, including Felicia Heaton and Rebecca Channer. We exchanged information and set dates to meet this weekend. We were also introduced to Kenny and Shakur, who are with the Rock Against Alzheimer’s. We met Mark, the president of the board, and he called his step son, Jake, whose mother has Young Onset Alzheimer’s, to come to the brewery. It was a huge success.

The feature was “The Memory Loss Tapes”, which Em and I had seen the previous night. Delighted not to have to go through the tough experience of watching this documentary two nights in a row, when Jake arrived we joined him in the bar to chat. We exchanged stories and he told his well. We were the first COYOD he had met and his mother was diagnosed many years ago. We talked through the end of the showing and went back in the room to finish up.

Cindy and Steve Klitz, who we planned to stay with for two days, came to the showing and afterwards took us to their humble abode. We will share the joys of that stay shortly…

Meet Moejoe Rider and Jeremy

by Maxim in Hosts

The man on the left wearing tie dye is named Steve aka Moe Joe Rider. He rode from Bainbridge Island (Seattle) to Portland. His route south was very similar to ours.

The man in the red is named Jeremy. He has opened up his house to us and we have been staying with him and his wife Monica.

Today Jeremy took us on a “short, maybe 30 mile ride” that lasted 40 miles. Along the route we came across Moe Joe. He seemed to be lost. So Jeremy went to help Moe Joe. Jeremy asked Moe Joe where he was coming from and the following conversation took place…

Jeremy: Where are you coming from?
Moe Joe: Seattle, specifically Bainbridge Island.
Jeremy: These guys (pointing to us) just rode down from Seattle too?
Moe Joe: Did they have BOB trailers?
Jeremy: Yeah!
Moe Joe: Whoa…I know them…I would stop in small towns on my way down from Seattle and the town folk would say that this couple was just here riding through town from Seattle pulling some trailers…
Jeremy: Well…come over and meet who you’ve been following.